Leaf salad Gỏi lá
A platter of forest and garden leaves that you roll into a funnel around boiled pork, shrimp, and pork skin, then eat in one bite. Each mouthful runs hot, sour, salty, sweet, astringent, and nutty at once.
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Sour mango leaf, nutty sung leaf, and astringent guava leaf sit side by side, so the bite changes with the leaves you pick.
How to enjoy it
Roll a large leaf, such as sung, perilla, mustard green, or lettuce, into a funnel. Add five to seven more leaves, then pork, shrimp, pork skin rubbed with roasted rice powder, a spoon of sauce, salt, and pepper, and eat it in one bite.
Platters and fillings vary by kitchen. Publishers count from about 30 to 70 kinds of leaf, and they disagree on whether the rainy or the dry season brings the fuller platter. Some kitchens add carp or rice paper. The sauce is built on fermented glutinous rice, dried shrimp, and pork belly, and may carry mẹ, satay, or the smell of wine lees.
Where to try it
Trần Cao Vân, Kon Tum city, known as phố gỏi lá, the leaf-salad street. Go at lunch or dinner.