Lau mam Lẩu mắm
A fermented-fish hotpot from the old Long An half, its broth brown, thick, and gently sweet from mắm sặc, mắm trèn, and mắm linh. Dip fresh rice noodles and plates of greens, and pull them out while they are still crisp.
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Gently sweet rather than fatty, brown from the mắm, and thickened with pounded garlic, chili, and lemongrass. The Long An pot is kept from being too salty, and the smell is strong if you are not used to it.
Mắm sặc brings the smell, mắm trèn a deep sweetness and dark color, and mắm linh the fat of field fish.
How to enjoy it
Share the pot with fresh rice noodles and three or four plates of greens: bông súng, đọt nhãn lồng, ngò gai, ngò om, cải xanh, rau muống, đậu rồng, rau đắng, rau càng cua, bông so đũa, cà phổi, bắp chuối, ớt hiểm, tỏi, and especially ngọn rau dừa. Okra and straw mushrooms go in when it boils.
The pot can hold seafood, beef, pork, and field fish: eel, cá rô, cá sặc rằn, cá dầy, and snakehead.
Where to try it
The old Long An half of the province.