Hai Phong food guide

Hai Phong starts with bánh đa cua: thin red crackers from Dư Hàng Kênh and crab in a crab broth. Then a very hot little pate sandwich, a bitter-sweet chrysanthemum glass, and snails after dark.

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Banh da cua, Bánh đa cua

Photo: HoangTuanAnh · CC BY-SA 3.0

The crackers are thin, soft, and chewy. A full bowl adds mantis shrimp, chả lá lốt, shrimp, and fish cake. The crab is đồng or bể. Chili sauce, fried shallot, herbs, and lime or kumquat finish the bowl. One account calls it the common breakfast and the evening meal. The 2023 food map puts it at lunch and through the day. Eat it at a pavement table. The sign is often a small card tied to a tree.

Bánh mì cay is the small crisp pate sandwich with chí chương, often carried with trà cúc. Sủi dìn is the winter dumpling, coconut and peanut in a ginger syrup hot enough to burn the tongue. Bánh bèo is the square rice cake on banana leaf. Đồ Sơn adds a crisp jellyfish salad, geoduck grilled with scallion fat, and salt-fried mantis shrimp.

Chả rươi is the seasonal fried ragworm cake, crisp outside and soft inside, with tangerine peel in the taste. One account takes the worm in Tiên Lãng and Vĩnh Bảo in lunar months 9 and 10. Another places the dish in the former Hải Dương land. Another writes of rươi from Tứ Kỳ. Cua lông and bún cá rô đồng stay with that former Hải Dương list. They are not bún cá cay.

Hai Phong specialties

Bánh đa cua comes first. Each line is a dish, with the street when one was recorded.

Banh da cua, Bánh đa cua

Banh da cua Bánh đa cua

Bánh đa cua is a bowl of thin, soft, chewy red rice crackers from Dư Hàng Kênh in a crab broth, with crab, shrimp, and herbs. Chili sauce, fried shallot, and lime or kumquat finish it.

Banh mi cay, Bánh mì cay

Banh mi cay Bánh mì cay

Bánh mì cay is a very hot little pate sandwich, about two fingertips wide, with a crisp crust. Chí chương, the chili sauce, supplies the heat.

Nem cua be, Nem cua bể

Nem cua be Nem cua bể

Nem cua bể is a square fried roll, crisp just out of the pan, filled with crab, shrimp, pork, and wood ear. It comes with rice noodles and sweet-sour fish sauce.

Oc, Ốc

Oc Ốc

Ốc is an evening plate of ốc hương, ốc đỏ môi, ốc móng tay, and ốc đá. They are boiled in fish sauce, cooked with salted-egg sauce, steamed Thai style, or finished in tamarind sauce.

Sui din, Sủi dìn

Sui din Sủi dìn

Sủi dìn is a soft, chewy winter dumpling of wet-milled glutinous rice, filled with shredded coconut, sesame, and peanuts. The ginger syrup is hot enough to burn the tongue.

Cha ruoi, Chả rươi

Cha ruoi Chả rươi

Chả rươi is a seasonal fried ragworm cake, slightly charred and crisp outside, soft and fatty inside. The mix is ragworm, pork, egg, and dill, and tangerine peel marks the taste.

Nem chua, Nem chua

Nem chua Nem chua

Nem chua is on Hải Phòng’s specialty list. Nem chua An Thọ is listed on its own among traditional products.

More bowls

Bún cá cay is the other morning bowl. Bún tôm is the shrimp-noodle bowl people ask for beside bánh đa cua.

Bun ca cay

Bun ca cay Bún cá cay

Lê Lợi and Lê Lai

Bún cá cay is a morning bowl of rice noodles and fish in a light broth with a chili note. A full bowl has close to ten toppings from the fish, including offal and fish maw, plus banana blossom and dọc mùng.

Bun tom

Bun tom Bún tôm

Hai Phong

Bún tôm is a shrimp-noodle bowl visitors ask for beside bánh đa cua.

The drinks and the sweets

Trà cúc is the glass that goes with the small sandwich. Cà phê cốt dừa is the coconut coffee. Dừa dầm and chè are the sweets at Cát Bi.

Tra cuc

Tra cuc Trà cúc

Phan Bội Châu

Trà cúc is a glass of chrysanthemum, liquorice, and kumquat. The taste is bitter, sweet, and astringent at once.

Ca phe cot dua

Ca phe cot dua Cà phê cốt dừa

Hai Phong

Cà phê cốt dừa is Hải Phòng’s coconut coffee, listed with trà cúc among the city’s drinks.

Dua dam

Dua dam Dừa dầm

Chợ Cát Bi

Dừa dầm is a coconut sweet at Cát Bi market. Chè dừa dầm is listed separately among the port dishes.

Che

Che Chè

Chợ Cát Bi

Chè at Cát Bi is the market’s sweet soups, set out with the other sweets.

Pate

Pate Pate

Hai Phong

Pate is a Hải Phòng mark of its own, and it is also the fragrant filling inside bánh mì cay.

Market snacks

Bánh bèo is the square rice cake. Giá bể and bì bò share the afternoon markets with it.

Banh beo

Banh beo Bánh bèo

Lê Đại Hành, and the afternoon markets

Bánh bèo here is a square rice-flour cake with pork, wood ear, and fried shallot, on banana leaf. The dip is fish sauce with chili powder and pepper.

Gia be

Gia be Giá bể

Chợ Cát Bi and the afternoon markets

Giá bể, also written giá bể xào, is a Hải Phòng snack at Cát Bi market and the afternoon markets.

Bi bo

Bi bo Bì bò

Cát Bi, Cố Đạo, Chu Văn An, and An Dương

Bì bò is an afternoon plate at Cát Bi, Cố Đạo, Chu Văn An, and An Dương, beside giá bể and bánh bèo.

Banh duc tau

Banh duc tau Bánh đúc tàu

Hai Phong

Bánh đúc tàu is a cake on Hải Phòng’s specialty list.

Cha chia Ha Lung

Cha chia Ha Lung Chả chìa Hạ Lũng

Hai Phong

Chả chìa Hạ Lũng is a Hải Phòng dish listed with bánh đa cua among the country’s notable dishes.

Com chay hai san

Com chay hai san Cơm cháy hải sản

Hai Phong

Cơm cháy hải sản is crispy rice with seafood, listed among Hải Phòng’s traditional products.

Đồ Sơn plates

Nộm sứa is the crisp jellyfish salad. These two plates are grilled geoduck with scallion fat, and salt-fried mantis shrimp.

Tu hai

Tu hai Tu hài nướng mỡ hành

Đồ Sơn

Tu hài nướng mỡ hành is geoduck grilled with scallion fat at Đồ Sơn.

Be be rang muoi

Be be rang muoi Bề bề rang muối

Đồ Sơn

Bề bề rang muối is salt-fried mantis shrimp at Đồ Sơn. The same animal also sits in a full bánh đa cua bowl.

Regional dishes

Cua lông and bún cá rô đồng are the former Hải Dương dishes now inside the city. Bánh cuốn and bánh đậu xanh are the Tây Hải Phòng pair, honored with chả rươi. Chả rươi is already with the port plates, because other accounts place the worm in Tiên Lãng, Vĩnh Bảo, and Tứ Kỳ.

Bun ca ro dong, Bún cá rô đồng

Bun ca ro dong Bún cá rô đồng

Bún cá rô đồng is a noodle bowl of climbing perch from the former Hải Dương land now inside the city. It is not the center’s bún cá cay.

Banh cuon, Bánh cuốn

Banh cuon Bánh cuốn

Bánh cuốn is a rolled rice sheet, an everyday specialty of Tây Hải Phòng, honored with bánh đậu xanh and chả rươi.

Cua long

Cua long Cua lông

Former Hải Dương side

Cua lông is a hairy crab from the former Hải Dương land now inside the city. It is not the crab in bánh đa cua.

Casual dining

These are the markets and streets the accounts name. A shop name is not a stop.

Cat Bi market

Cat Bi market Chợ Cát Bi

phường Thành Tô, quận Hải An

The middle of the market is the snack stop for bánh đa cua, giá bể, chè, dừa dầm, and bánh mì cay. Hours vary.

Afternoon markets

Afternoon markets Chợ Cố Đạo, chợ Chu Văn An, chợ An Dương

Cát Bi, Cố Đạo, Chu Văn An, and An Dương

The afternoon round with Cát Bi for giá bể, bì bò, and bánh bèo. Hours vary.

Lach Tray

Lach Tray Lạch Tray

Lạch Tray

A bánh đa cua address and an ốc address sit on this street. Hours vary.

Tran Phu

Tran Phu Trần Phú

Opposite the opera

Pavement tables opposite the opera run from about 18:00 until past midnight. Later maps also place bánh đa cua on Lạch Tray and at Cát Bi. Confirm the evening hours locally.

Phan Boi Chau

Phan Boi Chau Phan Bội Châu

Phan Bội Châu

The trà cúc street. Bánh mì cay is also on Lê Lợi and Minh Khai. Hours vary.

Le Dai Hanh Lê Đại Hành

The start of Lê Đại Hành

The start of this street is the bánh bèo stretch. Hours vary.

Do Son street food

Do Son street food Ẩm thực đường phố Đồ Sơn

phường Đồ Sơn

The ward is known for bánh đa cua, nộm sứa, tu hài, and bề bề. Hours vary.

Breakfast

Morning is bún cá cay, then bánh mì cay with trà cúc. Bánh đa cua is also the common breakfast, and the evening meal. In winter the small sandwich also turns up at the end of the working day.

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