Quan Ba twin hills Núi đôi Quản Bạ
Two hills above the rice
Two rounded hills above the rice at Quản Bạ: stop on the first morning for the picture the loop is known for. They sit on QL4C after Heaven’s Gate and before lunch in Tam Sơn. Keep both hills in the frame, terraces in front and karst behind. Go in daylight, while cloud still sits on the peaks.
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The twin hills at Quản Bạ, ripe rice in front and karst behind
Photo: Lee Lio · CC BY 2.0
MountainsPhotographyRice scenery
Stop where both hills read at once. Two rounded slopes sit over the terraces, and the karst rises behind them. This is the morning picture on the way north from Hà Giang town, after Heaven’s Gate and before Tam Sơn.
Photo: Thietkeweb123 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Some mornings the cloud fills the gaps between the peaks. On others the rice is gold in the foreground. A frame that keeps only one hill is a different picture. Tam Sơn, now inside xã Quản Bạ, is the lunch town just down the road, with northern fare at the stalls and coffee easy to find.
Getting there and around
Quản Bạ is the first morning on QL4C, north from Hà Giang town. Heaven’s Gate is the pass lookout on that road. The twin hills come after the pass, before or near Tam Sơn.
Xã Quản Bạ joins thị trấn Tam Sơn, xã Quyết Tiến, and xã Quản Bạ. Xã Cán Tỷ joins Bát Đại Sơn and Cán Tỷ. Which of those communes holds the slopes is still open, so ask locally if you need the village name. The hills themselves are the stop on the way to lunch.
From Ha Giang town
North on QL4C. The pass lookout comes first, then the hills, then lunch in Tam Sơn. Ride in daylight.
From Heaven’s Gate
Down toward Tam Sơn. The hills sit on this stretch, before or near the lunch town.
Hours and fees
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Also in Ha Giang
Ma Pi Leng Pass Đèo Mã Pí Lèng
High road from Đồng Văn to Mèo Vạc: ride the rim above the Nho Quế for most of a morning.
Lung Cu flag tower Cột cờ Lũng Cú
Border flag tower at Lũng Cú: take the three-hour detour and climb 200 steps for the view over the plateau.
Nho Que river Sông Nho Quế
River under Mã Pì Lèng: look into Tu Sản from the rim, or take side road 193A for a closer view of the water.
Vuong family palace Dinh thự họ Vương
Hmong palace at Sà Phìn: walk three stone-and-wood courts on the ride to Đồng Văn, open 7:30 to 17:00.
Dong Van Đồng Văn
Stone old quarter in Đồng Văn: walk the market houses and stay the night before the pass.
Yen Minh pine forest Rừng thông Yên Minh
Pine forest beside QL4C at Yên Minh: pull off for shade on the first afternoon, before the night in town.
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