Can Gio food guide

Order lẩu cá dứa on đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất, then walk to chợ hải sản Hàng Dương for live seafood beside bãi 30 tháng 4. The mangrove plates are the mudskipper salad, lá lìm kìm, ba khía with lá buôi, and straw-grilled duck at Vàm Sát.

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Kho ca dua, Khô cá dứa

Photo: Phương Huy · CC0

The sit-down streets are đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất, in the old Cần Thạnh town, now xã Cần Giờ. Tables there serve lẩu cá dứa nấu măng chua, the simmered fish, tôm tích, and the shellfish. The market is separate: chợ hải sản Hàng Dương on đường Thạnh Thới, about 50 m from the sand. You point at a live animal and the stall cooks it, or you take a pan already on the fire.

Ho Chi Minh City is the long meal. Here the plates are mangrove and coast. Gỏi lá lìm kìm comes with fried cá bống sao. Gỏi cá thòi lòi is the mudskipper salad. Khô cá dứa is the thing people carry home. Salt from the pans is the other thing people carry home.

Much of the coast is nghêu beds, and the silt from the Đồng Nai and the Soài Rạp is why the seafood grows fast and tastes sweet.

Can Gio specialties

Lẩu cá dứa and khô cá dứa come first. The mangrove plates, the fruit, and rượu mật ong rừng Sác follow.

Lau ca dua, Lẩu cá dứa

Lau ca dua Lẩu cá dứa

Lẩu cá dứa nấu măng chua is a southern sour-sweet hotpot of sea catfish and bamboo shoot. The flesh is sweet, the skin is smooth and fatty, and you finish the fish with nước mắm, chili, and a little bún.

Ca dua kho, Cá dứa kho

Ca dua kho Cá dứa kho

Cá dứa kho is the same sea catfish, simmered and eaten with rice. The flesh is firm and a little fatty.

Kho ca dua, Khô cá dứa

Kho ca dua Khô cá dứa

Khô cá dứa is sea catfish split, salted, and dried for one sun. The flesh fries or grills to a deep yellow, firm, with only a little fat under the skin.

Tom tich, Tôm tích

Tom tich Tôm tích

Tôm tích, also called tôm tít, is a large mantis shrimp cooked with burnt garlic. The meat is sweet, and a small shell leaves little of it once you crack it.

Tom, Tôm sú, tôm sắt, tôm đất

Tom Tôm sú, tôm sắt, tôm đất

Most of the prawns here are tôm sú, from the sea or from ponds. Tôm đất has a soft clear shell and chewy sweet meat, and tôm sắt has a hard shell.

Oc len, Ốc len

Oc len Ốc len

Ốc len is a mangrove snail, on the town menu and at Hàng Dương as ốc len xào dừa.

Goi chua oc dun Gỏi chua ốc đụn

Gỏi chua ốc đụn is a sour salad of ốc đụn.

Oc giac Ốc giác

Ốc giác is a sea snail with a chewy, crisp bite.

Oc huong, Ốc hương

Oc huong Ốc hương

Ốc hương biển hấp sả is a spotted sea snail steamed with lemongrass. The meat is cleanly sweet and tastes of the sea.

Oc mo Ốc mỡ

Ốc mỡ is cooked as ốc mỡ xào me and as ốc mỡ rang me. The snail is sweet and soft.

So huyet, Sò huyết

So huyet Sò huyết

Sò huyết is a blood cockle, cooked from the live shell, including the town plate sò huyết la cót.

Vop Vọp

Vọp, also written dọp, is a large shellfish eaten with mỡ hành and peanuts, or grilled. It is not too chewy.

Lau ca duoi Lẩu cá đuối

Lẩu cá đuối is a stingray hotpot with vegetables, sour bamboo, cần cà, or ngót.

Cua cum Cua cúm

Cua cúm is a mangrove crab with a black body and a rough shell. The meat is firm and fragrant.

Ghe, Ghẹ

Ghe Ghẹ

Ghẹ is the swimmer crab visitors ask for at Hàng Dương, also served as ghẹ nấu bầu. Some shells are red-pink and some are green, and the meat is firmer in the last days of the lunar month.

Goi ca thoi loi, Gỏi cá thòi lòi

Goi ca thoi loi Gỏi cá thòi lòi

Gỏi cá thòi lòi trộn lá lìm kìm is a salad of mangrove mudskipper and lá lìm kìm. The fish is sweet, fragrant, and soft, against a sour, slightly astringent leaf.

Goi la lim kim Gỏi lá lìm kìm

Gỏi lá lìm kìm is a salad of a small watery mangrove vine, with cá bống sao fried crisp or with dried fish. It is salty and sour, with a sweet finish that changes with the rain and the hour.

Canh la lim kim Canh lá lìm kìm

Canh lá lìm kìm is a soup of the same mangrove leaf with tôm and tép. The leaf is already salty and the shrimp is sweet, so the pot takes no added salt.

Canh chua ca khoai Canh chua cá khoai

Canh chua cá khoai is a sour soup of a long, round fish with pineapple, tamarind, tomato, bean sprouts, ngổ, and spring onion. The flesh is soft and translucent, and the bowl smells of pineapple and tomato, sweet, then cleanly sour.

Vit nuoc man, Vịt nước mặn

Vit nuoc man Vịt nước mặn

Vịt nước mặn is a brackish-water duck from Vàm Sát, grilled in straw and eaten with a pepper and lemongrass dip. The meat is firm, fresh, and naturally sweet, and low in fat.

Ca doi muoi hot, Cá đối nổ muối hột

Ca doi muoi hot Cá đối nổ muối hột

Cá đối nổ muối hột is mullet buried in coarse salt and cooked by the heat of the salt as it pops. The flesh stays moist and tastes of coarse salt and lemongrass, then goes into rice paper with forest leaves.

Sam trung nuong Sam trứng nướng

Sam trứng nướng is horseshoe crab grilled on charcoal, then shredded with its eggs, spring onion, garlic, chili, cilantro, and crushed peanuts. The eggs are fatty and the meat is sweet.

Lau ba khia, Lẩu ba khía

Lau ba khia Lẩu ba khía

Lẩu ba khía lá buôi is a mangrove-crab hotpot with a fatty, clean-sweet crab riêu. The leaf, also called rau bộ đội, is nutty and wants a thorough cook.

Dia sam, Địa sâm

Dia sam Địa sâm

Địa sâm is eaten fresh, grilled, stir-fried, fried, or as porridge, and dried to sweeten a cooking liquid. It is naturally sweet.

Xoai cat, Xoài cát Cần Giờ

Xoai cat Xoài cát Cần Giờ

Xoài cát Cần Giờ is the Hòa Lộc mango grown on this coast, round and yellow. It is cool-sweet, and the soil and the care make it different from the same variety elsewhere.

Mang cau, Mãng cầu

Mang cau Mãng cầu

Mãng cầu here is not very large, with thick flesh that is chewy and sweet. The taste follows the sandy coastal soil.

Seafood

These are the seafood plates. The other pots include lẩu cá ngát, cá bóp, and cá mao.

Lau ca dua Lẩu cá dứa

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Lẩu cá dứa nấu măng chua is a southern sour-sweet hotpot of sea catfish and bamboo shoot. The flesh is sweet, the skin is smooth and fatty, and you finish the fish with nước mắm, chili, and a little bún.

Ca dua kho Cá dứa kho

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Cá dứa kho is the same sea catfish, simmered and eaten with rice. The flesh is firm and a little fatty.

Kho ca dua Khô cá dứa

Khô cá dứa is sea catfish split, salted, and dried for one sun. The flesh fries or grills to a deep yellow, firm, with only a little fat under the skin.

Tom tich Tôm tích

Town streets, or Hàng Dương

Tôm tích, also called tôm tít, is a large mantis shrimp cooked with burnt garlic. The meat is sweet, and a small shell leaves little of it once you crack it.

Tom Tôm sú, tôm sắt, tôm đất

Most of the prawns here are tôm sú, from the sea or from ponds. Tôm đất has a soft clear shell and chewy sweet meat, and tôm sắt has a hard shell.

Oc len Ốc len

Hàng Dương, or the town streets

Ốc len is a mangrove snail, on the town menu and at Hàng Dương as ốc len xào dừa.

Goi chua oc dun Gỏi chua ốc đụn

Gỏi chua ốc đụn is a sour salad of ốc đụn.

Oc giac Ốc giác

Ốc giác is a sea snail with a chewy, crisp bite.

Oc huong

Oc huong Ốc hương

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Ốc hương biển hấp sả is a spotted sea snail steamed with lemongrass. The meat is cleanly sweet and tastes of the sea.

Oc mo Ốc mỡ

Chợ hải sản Hàng Dương

Ốc mỡ is cooked as ốc mỡ xào me and as ốc mỡ rang me. The snail is sweet and soft.

So huyet

So huyet Sò huyết

Town streets, or Hàng Dương

Sò huyết is a blood cockle, cooked from the live shell, including the town plate sò huyết la cót.

Vop Vọp

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Vọp, also written dọp, is a large shellfish eaten with mỡ hành and peanuts, or grilled. It is not too chewy.

Hau nuong

Hau nuong Hàu nướng

Chợ hải sản Hàng Dương, đường Thạnh Thới

Hàu nướng is an oyster grilled in the shell, with cheese or with mỡ hành.

Ca duoi hap Cá đuối hấp hành

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Cá đuối hấp hành is stingray steamed with onion. Diners also eat the fatty liver.

Lau ca duoi Lẩu cá đuối

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Lẩu cá đuối is a stingray hotpot with vegetables, sour bamboo, cần cà, or ngót.

Cua um Cua um chua ngọt

Đường Duyên Hải and đường Tắc Xuất

Cua um chua ngọt is a sour-sweet crab braise.

Cua cum Cua cúm

Cua cúm is a mangrove crab with a black body and a rough shell. The meat is firm and fragrant.

Ghe Ghẹ

Hàng Dương, or the town streets

Ghẹ is the swimmer crab visitors ask for at Hàng Dương, also served as ghẹ nấu bầu. Some shells are red-pink and some are green, and the meat is firmer in the last days of the lunar month.

Mangrove plates, fruit, and a drink

The mangrove plates are the leaf salad, the mudskipper, the brackish-water duck, and ba khía. Mango and custard apple are the fruit people carry home.

Goi ca thoi loi Gỏi cá thòi lòi

Gỏi cá thòi lòi trộn lá lìm kìm is a salad of mangrove mudskipper and lá lìm kìm. The fish is sweet, fragrant, and soft, against a sour, slightly astringent leaf.

Goi la lim kim Gỏi lá lìm kìm

Vàm Sát

Gỏi lá lìm kìm is a salad of a small watery mangrove vine, with cá bống sao fried crisp or with dried fish. It is salty and sour, with a sweet finish that changes with the rain and the hour.

Canh la lim kim Canh lá lìm kìm

Canh lá lìm kìm is a soup of the same mangrove leaf with tôm and tép. The leaf is already salty and the shrimp is sweet, so the pot takes no added salt.

Canh chua ca khoai Canh chua cá khoai

Canh chua cá khoai is a sour soup of a long, round fish with pineapple, tamarind, tomato, bean sprouts, ngổ, and spring onion. The flesh is soft and translucent, and the bowl smells of pineapple and tomato, sweet, then cleanly sour.

Vit nuoc man Vịt nước mặn

Vàm Sát

Vịt nước mặn is a brackish-water duck from Vàm Sát, grilled in straw and eaten with a pepper and lemongrass dip. The meat is firm, fresh, and naturally sweet, and low in fat.

Ca doi muoi hot Cá đối nổ muối hột

Cá đối nổ muối hột is mullet buried in coarse salt and cooked by the heat of the salt as it pops. The flesh stays moist and tastes of coarse salt and lemongrass, then goes into rice paper with forest leaves.

Sam trung nuong Sam trứng nướng

Sam trứng nướng is horseshoe crab grilled on charcoal, then shredded with its eggs, spring onion, garlic, chili, cilantro, and crushed peanuts. The eggs are fatty and the meat is sweet.

Lau ba khia Lẩu ba khía

Lẩu ba khía lá buôi is a mangrove-crab hotpot with a fatty, clean-sweet crab riêu. The leaf, also called rau bộ đội, is nutty and wants a thorough cook.

Dia sam Địa sâm

Địa sâm is eaten fresh, grilled, stir-fried, fried, or as porridge, and dried to sweeten a cooking liquid. It is naturally sweet.

Ruou mat ong Rượu mật ong rừng Sác

Rượu mật ong rừng Sác is a honey wine drunk with the mudskipper salad.

Xoai cat

Xoai cat Xoài cát Cần Giờ

Xoài cát Cần Giờ is the Hòa Lộc mango grown on this coast, round and yellow. It is cool-sweet, and the soil and the care make it different from the same variety elsewhere.

Mang cau

Mang cau Mãng cầu

Mãng cầu here is not very large, with thick flesh that is chewy and sweet. The taste follows the sandy coastal soil.

Casual dining

Hàng Dương is the market by the sand. Duyên Hải and Tắc Xuất are the sit-down streets.

Hang Duong seafood market

Hang Duong seafood market Chợ hải sản Hàng Dương

Đường Thạnh Thới, xã Cần Giờ

The market is on đường Thạnh Thới, in the old xã Long Hòa, now xã Cần Giờ, beside bãi 30 tháng 4, about 50 m from the sand. You choose sò, ốc, cua, ghẹ, tôm, or mực, and the stall cooks it, or you take a pan already on the fire. Steaming is 10,000 VND a kilogram, and rang muối, cháy tỏi, xào dừa, xào bơ, xào me, nướng mỡ hành, nướng phô mai, and nướng mọi are 30,000. The same cooks plus hấp xả lá chanh are named, and cook-to-order is also a few tens of thousands of đồng. A busy day can mean a wait of about 30 to 40 minutes. Sellers start in the morning after the boat comes in at Cầu Cảng, and the stalls run into the evening.

Duyen Hai and Tac Xuat Đường Duyên Hải và đường Tắc Xuất

Xã Cần Giờ, the old Cần Thạnh town

Along Duyên Hải and into Tắc Xuất toward the sea for lẩu cá dứa and tôm tích.

Can Gio travel guide