Tuy Hoa food guide
Tuy Hòa eats from the market, the river bank, and the lagoon: bánh canh hẹ with sea-fish cake and chives, the ocean tuna eye stewed with thuốc bắc, and blood cockles from Đầm Ô Loan grilled until the juices run.
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Photo: Baoothersks · CC BY-SA 4.0
Start at chợ Tuy Hòa with a bowl of bánh canh hẹ, sold all day at the Ngô Quyền and Trần Hưng Đạo corner. Then walk to Lê Duẩn and the Bạch Đằng riverbank for ocean tuna, cold slices rolled in mustard greens or the eye in its clay pot.
For the lagoon, drive 25 km north to Đầm Ô Loan for cockles and emperor crab, and to Sông Cầu for grilled chicken, jumping snails, and rượu Quán Đế. Phú Yên chicken rice is quieter than the Hội An or Tam Kỳ plates: lean yellow chicken over rice cooked in the broth.
Tuy Hoa specialties
Twenty-three plates, from the market noodle to the lagoon crab and the Sông Cầu grill. Bánh canh hẹ, the tuna, and the Ô Loan cockle come first.
Chive noodle soup Bánh canh hẹ
Tuy Hòa’s own noodle soup: soft strands that do not break, sea-fish cake, and a thick cover of chives. The smell of the chives is the draw, and the cake comes up in the same spoon.
Ocean tuna Cá ngừ đại dương
Ocean tuna, also called cá bò gù, is the fish Phú Yên led the country in catching. The plate to order is thin cold slices rolled in mustard greens with wasabi, chilli sauce, soy, herbs, green banana, and ginger.
The eye of an ocean tuna that often weighs 40–50 kg, stewed in a small clay pot with thuốc bắc. It is sweet and fatty, with the nuttiness of the herbs and the heat of lemongrass and chilli.
O Loan blood cockle Sò huyết đầm Ô Loan
Blood cockles from Đầm Ô Loan, with thick pink meat and yellow roe. Grilled on charcoal until the juices run, they are eaten hot with salt, pepper, and lime.
Emperor crab Cua Huỳnh Đế
The emperor crab of Đầm Ô Loan, red or yellow in the shell even while alive, with a tuft of short yellow hair. Its claws sit at the front, so it walks forward.
Oyster porridge Cháo hàu
Oysters fried with onion, salt, and pepper, then simmered with red rice and glutinous rice. Eat it hot, while the oysters are still sweet.
Rice sheets with pork Bánh hỏi lòng heo
Fine woven rice-noodle sheets with roast or grilled pork and offal, scallion fat, herbs, and garlic-chilli fish sauce. In Phú Yên it is the plate of weddings, death anniversaries, and pagoda days.
One-day beef Bò một nắng
Beef thigh and loin seasoned and dried for a single day, then grilled over charcoal and pounded soft. It is eaten with herbs, cucumber, and muối kiến vàng, the yellow-ant salt.
Phu Yen chicken rice Cơm gà Phú Yên
Lean, yellow, slightly chewy garden chicken over rice cooked in the chicken broth, so the rice stays light, fragrant, and sticky. Cucumber, pickled onion, and đồ chua come on the side.
Steamed rice cakes Bánh bèo
Small steamed rice cups, fragrant and chewy, topped with fried bread, pork floss, and scallion fat and finished with sweet-sour fish sauce. Tuy Hòa’s cups are not the bánh bèo of other places.
Jumping-shrimp pancakes Bánh xèo tôm nhảy
A small rice-flour pancake about a hand wide, filled with bean sprouts and seafood, usually shrimp and sometimes squid. You eat several, rolled in rice paper with herbs.
A cake made from dông, the lizard caught on Phú Yên’s beach sand in summer. It is eaten with fresh herbs.
Steamed scad, firm and sweet, fragrant with fried onion. Wrap it in bánh tráng with herbs and dip it in a sour-hot sauce or mắm nêm.
Quan De liquor Rượu Quán Đế
Rice liquor from Xuân Lộc and Xuân Bình in Sông Cầu, lighter and sweeter than ordinary rice spirit. The seahorse bottle is the one people ask for.
White-stone mango Xoài Đá Trắng
The mango from the garden of Chùa Từ Quang, once sent to the royal court and so also called xoài Ngự. A local proverb pairs it with the cassava of Phường Lụa: “Xoài Đá Trắng, sắn phường Lụa”.
Song Cau grilled chicken Gà nướng Sông Cầu
Chicken cut into wings and thighs, marinated with onion, pepper, chilli, garlic, and fish sauce, and grilled over charcoal. It comes with at least five dipping salts.
Cu Mong crab Ghẹ đầm Cù Mông
Crab from Đầm Cù Mông with sweet, fragrant meat. Steamed until the shell turns red and the meat white, it is dipped in salt, pepper, and lime.
A finger-sized fish with soft, fragrant, sweet flesh. It is grilled over charcoal, then dipped briefly in vinegar so the bones soften.
Jumping snail Ốc nhảy
Sông Cầu’s jumping snail, also called ốc đực, with crisp, sweet, fatty meat the color of chicken fat. Order it steamed with lemongrass and dipped in mắm gừng.
An Dan corn noodle Bún bắp An Dân
A yellow corn noodle from xã An Dân in Tuy An, sweet with corn and chewier than rice noodle. The simplest plate fries it with scallion fat or chives and eats it with chilli fish sauce and herbs.
Corn noodle in a light, sweet broth of tuna stomach and roe with tomato and pineapple, finished with a hot kick. The stomach is crisp, and the roe crackles and is rich.
Seaweed salad Gỏi rong biển
Seaweed from the reefs around gành Đá Đĩa, soaked in fresh water and tossed with herbs, shredded coconut, chopped mango, lime, and roasted peanuts. Broken sesame rice crackers go in the bowl.
Rice-paper rolls with boiled pork Bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo luộc
Thin slices of boiled or steamed belly pork, lean and fat together, rolled in local rice paper with lettuce, herbs, cucumber, and green banana. The dip is a fish sauce made from cá cơm, cá sặc, and cá thu.
Casual dining
Four places to eat: the market for the noodle, Lê Duẩn and the Bạch Đằng bank for tuna, Độc Lập for seafood after a swim, and cầu An Hải on the lagoon.
Tuy Hoa market Chợ Tuy Hòa
Trần Hưng Đạo side of the market
Bánh canh hẹ is sold all day at the Ngô Quyền and Trần Hưng Đạo corner and along the Trần Hưng Đạo side of the market.
Lê Duẩn and bờ kè Bạch Đằng
The street and the riverbank are where to eat the tuna eye, along with the corner of Điện Biên Phủ and Lê Duẩn.
Độc Lập
The beach road where people eat the fresh catch on the shore after a swim, and the same road after dark.
Cầu An Hải, north end of Đầm Ô Loan
Floating kitchens at the north end of Đầm Ô Loan, 25 km from the city, with a night boat on the lagoon.
Breakfast
Bánh canh hẹ is sold all day, so the morning bowl is the same as at midday. Cơm gà works at breakfast too, and bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo luộc is the morning plate when guests are at the table.