Tuy Hoa food guide

Tuy Hòa eats from the market, the river bank, and the lagoon: bánh canh hẹ with sea-fish cake and chives, the ocean tuna eye stewed with thuốc bắc, and blood cockles from Đầm Ô Loan grilled until the juices run.

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O Loan blood cockle, Sò huyết đầm Ô Loan

Photo: Baoothersks · CC BY-SA 4.0

Start at chợ Tuy Hòa with a bowl of bánh canh hẹ, sold all day at the Ngô Quyền and Trần Hưng Đạo corner. Then walk to Lê Duẩn and the Bạch Đằng riverbank for ocean tuna, cold slices rolled in mustard greens or the eye in its clay pot.

For the lagoon, drive 25 km north to Đầm Ô Loan for cockles and emperor crab, and to Sông Cầu for grilled chicken, jumping snails, and rượu Quán Đế. Phú Yên chicken rice is quieter than the Hội An or Tam Kỳ plates: lean yellow chicken over rice cooked in the broth.

Tuy Hoa specialties

Twenty-three plates, from the market noodle to the lagoon crab and the Sông Cầu grill. Bánh canh hẹ, the tuna, and the Ô Loan cockle come first.

Chive noodle soup, Bánh canh hẹ

Chive noodle soup Bánh canh hẹ

Tuy Hòa’s own noodle soup: soft strands that do not break, sea-fish cake, and a thick cover of chives. The smell of the chives is the draw, and the cake comes up in the same spoon.

Ocean tuna, Cá ngừ đại dương

Ocean tuna Cá ngừ đại dương

Ocean tuna, also called cá bò gù, is the fish Phú Yên led the country in catching. The plate to order is thin cold slices rolled in mustard greens with wasabi, chilli sauce, soy, herbs, green banana, and ginger.

Tuna eye Mắt cá ngừ đại dương

The eye of an ocean tuna that often weighs 40–50 kg, stewed in a small clay pot with thuốc bắc. It is sweet and fatty, with the nuttiness of the herbs and the heat of lemongrass and chilli.

Emperor crab, Cua Huỳnh Đế

Emperor crab Cua Huỳnh Đế

The emperor crab of Đầm Ô Loan, red or yellow in the shell even while alive, with a tuft of short yellow hair. Its claws sit at the front, so it walks forward.

Oyster porridge, Cháo hàu

Oyster porridge Cháo hàu

Oysters fried with onion, salt, and pepper, then simmered with red rice and glutinous rice. Eat it hot, while the oysters are still sweet.

Rice sheets with pork, Bánh hỏi lòng heo

Rice sheets with pork Bánh hỏi lòng heo

Fine woven rice-noodle sheets with roast or grilled pork and offal, scallion fat, herbs, and garlic-chilli fish sauce. In Phú Yên it is the plate of weddings, death anniversaries, and pagoda days.

One-day beef, Bò một nắng

One-day beef Bò một nắng

Beef thigh and loin seasoned and dried for a single day, then grilled over charcoal and pounded soft. It is eaten with herbs, cucumber, and muối kiến vàng, the yellow-ant salt.

Phu Yen chicken rice, Cơm gà Phú Yên

Phu Yen chicken rice Cơm gà Phú Yên

Lean, yellow, slightly chewy garden chicken over rice cooked in the chicken broth, so the rice stays light, fragrant, and sticky. Cucumber, pickled onion, and đồ chua come on the side.

Steamed rice cakes, Bánh bèo

Steamed rice cakes Bánh bèo

Small steamed rice cups, fragrant and chewy, topped with fried bread, pork floss, and scallion fat and finished with sweet-sour fish sauce. Tuy Hòa’s cups are not the bánh bèo of other places.

Lizard cake Chả dông

A cake made from dông, the lizard caught on Phú Yên’s beach sand in summer. It is eaten with fresh herbs.

Steamed scad Cá nục hấp

Steamed scad, firm and sweet, fragrant with fried onion. Wrap it in bánh tráng with herbs and dip it in a sour-hot sauce or mắm nêm.

Quan De liquor, Rượu Quán Đế

Quan De liquor Rượu Quán Đế

Rice liquor from Xuân Lộc and Xuân Bình in Sông Cầu, lighter and sweeter than ordinary rice spirit. The seahorse bottle is the one people ask for.

White-stone mango, Xoài Đá Trắng

White-stone mango Xoài Đá Trắng

The mango from the garden of Chùa Từ Quang, once sent to the royal court and so also called xoài Ngự. A local proverb pairs it with the cassava of Phường Lụa: “Xoài Đá Trắng, sắn phường Lụa”.

Cu Mong crab, Ghẹ đầm Cù Mông

Cu Mong crab Ghẹ đầm Cù Mông

Crab from Đầm Cù Mông with sweet, fragrant meat. Steamed until the shell turns red and the meat white, it is dipped in salt, pepper, and lime.

Grilled muong fish Cá mương

A finger-sized fish with soft, fragrant, sweet flesh. It is grilled over charcoal, then dipped briefly in vinegar so the bones soften.

Jumping snail, Ốc nhảy

Jumping snail Ốc nhảy

Sông Cầu’s jumping snail, also called ốc đực, with crisp, sweet, fatty meat the color of chicken fat. Order it steamed with lemongrass and dipped in mắm gừng.

An Dan corn noodle, Bún bắp An Dân

An Dan corn noodle Bún bắp An Dân

A yellow corn noodle from xã An Dân in Tuy An, sweet with corn and chewier than rice noodle. The simplest plate fries it with scallion fat or chives and eats it with chilli fish sauce and herbs.

Corn noodle with tuna offal Bún bắp lòng cá ngừ đại dương

Corn noodle in a light, sweet broth of tuna stomach and roe with tomato and pineapple, finished with a hot kick. The stomach is crisp, and the roe crackles and is rich.

Seaweed salad, Gỏi rong biển

Seaweed salad Gỏi rong biển

Seaweed from the reefs around gành Đá Đĩa, soaked in fresh water and tossed with herbs, shredded coconut, chopped mango, lime, and roasted peanuts. Broken sesame rice crackers go in the bowl.

Casual dining

Four places to eat: the market for the noodle, Lê Duẩn and the Bạch Đằng bank for tuna, Độc Lập for seafood after a swim, and cầu An Hải on the lagoon.

Tuy Hoa market

Tuy Hoa market Chợ Tuy Hòa

Trần Hưng Đạo side of the market

Bánh canh hẹ is sold all day at the Ngô Quyền and Trần Hưng Đạo corner and along the Trần Hưng Đạo side of the market.

Le Duan and the Bach Dang bank Lê Duẩn và bờ kè Bạch Đằng

Lê Duẩn and bờ kè Bạch Đằng

The street and the riverbank are where to eat the tuna eye, along with the corner of Điện Biên Phủ and Lê Duẩn.

Doc Lap seafood Hải sản đường Độc Lập

Độc Lập

The beach road where people eat the fresh catch on the shore after a swim, and the same road after dark.

An Hai kitchens Khu ẩm thực cầu An Hải

Cầu An Hải, north end of Đầm Ô Loan

Floating kitchens at the north end of Đầm Ô Loan, 25 km from the city, with a night boat on the lagoon.

Breakfast

Bánh canh hẹ is sold all day, so the morning bowl is the same as at midday. Cơm gà works at breakfast too, and bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo luộc is the morning plate when guests are at the table.

Tuy Hoa travel guide